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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.